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Car Loan vs Lease Calculator: Total Cost of Ownership Compared

Compare the total cost of buying a car with a loan versus leasing. Includes residual value, down payments, monthly payments, and effective per-month cost.

Car Loan vs Lease Calculator (Total Cost of Ownership)

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Results
Cheaper option
Loan
Loan total paid (down + payments)
$41,068.31
Vehicle residual value at end
$19,250.00
Loan net cost (paid minus residual)
$21,818.31
Loan monthly payment
$601.14
Lease total paid (down + payments)
$18,700.00
Loan effective per-month cost (paid net of residual / loan months)
$363.64
Lease effective per-month cost
$519.44
Why this calculator

Buying with a loan and leasing look different on paper but the total-cost comparison depends on more than the monthly payment. Buying gives you an asset at the end of the loan; leasing returns the car to the dealer with nothing in hand. To compare fairly, you need to account for the residual value of the car at the end of the loan and to standardise the time horizons.

This calculator takes the vehicle price, loan terms (months, rate, down payment), and lease terms (months, down payment, monthly), plus the expected residual value at the end of the loan term. It computes total paid under each option, the loan's net cost after subtracting residual value, and an effective per-month cost on both sides that you can compare directly. The headline figure is a simple verdict: loan or lease.

A rough sanity check: a $35,000 vehicle financed at 7.5 percent over 60 months with $5,000 down costs about $48,000 in total payments. If the car has a 55 percent residual at the end (which is typical for mainstream brands holding value well), the net cost of ownership is about $48,000 minus $19,250 residual equals $28,750. A 36-month lease with $2,500 down and $450 a month totals $18,700; multiplied to a 60-month equivalent for fair comparison, that is about $31,000. In this scenario, buying narrowly wins because the residual value is high enough to compensate for the higher monthly payments.

The calculator's verdict toggles based on whether the loan's net cost is lower than the lease's pro-rated cost. The two situations where leasing typically wins are luxury cars with high depreciation (low residual value) and EVs in the early years of a model run when residual is uncertain. The two situations where buying typically wins are reliable mainstream brands with high residual value (Toyota, Honda) and longer ownership periods (driving the car several years past the loan payoff produces years of no-payment ownership).

The deep dive

How buying compares to leasing

The total-cost comparison between buying with a loan and leasing requires three adjustments to be apples-to-apples. First, account for the residual value of the bought vehicle; you own an asset at loan payoff that can be sold or kept. Second, standardise the time horizon, because loans and leases typically have different durations. Third, account for opportunity cost on the down payment, although for typical interest rates the effect is small and the calculator simplifies by ignoring it.

Residual value is the single biggest driver of the buy-versus-lease calculation. Cars that hold value (Toyota, Honda, certain Subarus, some luxury) make buying attractive because the residual offsets a large chunk of total payments. Cars that depreciate quickly (most luxury brands, mid-range trim levels, lower-volume models) make leasing attractive because the lessor absorbs the depreciation. Edmunds and Kelley Blue Book publish residual-value forecasts; for a typical 5-year-old vehicle, mainstream brands retain 45 to 60 percent of original price, luxury brands 30 to 45 percent, EVs vary widely.

What is in the verdict comparison

The calculator's verdict normalises the lease cost to the loan term. If your loan is 60 months and your lease is 36, the lease total is multiplied by 60 divided by 36 to project what comparable lease-after-lease behaviour would cost over the loan term. This is not perfect because lease prices change with vehicle model years, residual values, and rates, but it gives a reasonable apples-to-apples baseline.

The loan net cost is total paid minus the residual value at loan end. This assumes you sell the car at the residual value at the end of the loan; in practice many owners keep cars longer (effectively turning the residual into additional owned-asset value beyond the loan term) which makes buying even better. Some owners trade the car in earlier (which can incur transaction friction and may yield less than estimated residual).

When leasing wins

Leasing is genuinely cheaper in specific scenarios. First, when residual values are low (luxury brands depreciating fast, EV models with uncertain holding power). Second, when you want a new car every 2 to 4 years and would otherwise trade in frequently (each trade-in produces transaction friction and a depreciation hit; leasing makes the change pattern explicit). Third, when business deductions favour lease accounting (US small-business owners can often deduct lease payments cleanly versus the more complex depreciation-and-interest deduction on a financed vehicle).

Leasing also typically requires less cash at signing for the same monthly payment because no equity is being built. For cash-constrained buyers who can otherwise afford the monthly payment, leasing can be the path that lets them drive the vehicle without committing the full purchase price.

When buying wins

Buying typically wins for three reasons. First, residual value. Reliable mainstream brands hold value well; buying lets you capture that retained value. Second, no mileage limits. Most leases cap mileage at 10,000 to 15,000 miles per year with hefty per-mile penalties above the cap; heavy drivers can pay thousands in excess-mileage charges at lease end. Third, longer holding. Driving a vehicle 8 to 12 years instead of returning it at 3 years produces several years of no-payment ownership that dramatically improves the long-run buy-versus-lease math.

Leasing also produces ongoing payments forever (each lease ends with a new lease) while buying eventually pays off the loan and produces a payment-free period. For someone who keeps cars long-term, the payment-free years are pure savings versus continuing to lease.

What this calculator does not include

Mileage overage charges (real cost for heavy drivers leasing). Disposition fees at lease end (typically $350 to $500). Acquisition fees on lease (typically $500 to $1,000, sometimes baked into the cap cost). Insurance differences (leases typically require higher coverage). Maintenance costs (the bought vehicle bears maintenance over a longer period; the leased vehicle is typically covered by warranty for the duration). Tax treatment differences for business use. Trade-in value at end of loan (the calculator assumes you sell at residual). Capitalised cost reductions, rebates, and incentives, which can change the picture meaningfully on either side. For a comprehensive analysis, build the per-month cost-of-ownership including insurance, maintenance, fuel, and registration; this calculator is meant to handle the financing-side comparison.

Frequently asked questions

4 questions answered

Residual value at loan payoff is the biggest variable in the buy-versus-lease comparison and is hard to predict precisely. Look up the model's 5-year residual-value forecast on Kelley Blue Book or Edmunds. Mainstream Japanese brands often retain 55 to 60 percent; luxury and lower-volume models often retain 35 to 45 percent. EVs vary widely; some Teslas hold value well, many other EVs depreciate fast.

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This calculator runs entirely in your browser. Your inputs are not stored or transmitted. Results are estimates and should not be taken as financial, legal, or tax advice. Default currency: USD. Locale: English.